YELLOW CHROMATE SOLUTION - 4OZ

Preparation as always is the key to success. I have achieved some very nice results with the red and green iridescent highs I associate with this type of finish.

when you follow the directions and keep all fluids at the same temperature. I restore vintage carburetors and find that using a strong acid will greatly affect the overall coloring of the parts. I have used different acids and procedures to finially use sulfuric acid in a 3% solution. It eliminates the "scum" that had to be scrubbed off before the chromate wash. I make sure all parts of a carb are treated at the same time to give the carb an even coloring. The color mix lasts a long time as long it has not been contaminated and is kept sealed.

Fast Shipping and Quality Product!

I think that this kit provided is a wonderful product , but just know timing is every thing to the color desired, when this is done right the results are worth the money and time.

I can now yellow zinc small parts and small batches affordably and on my schedule. Does a nice job.

I read several write ups on this including the previous reviews and bought it. I use a vinegar pickle instead of Copy Cad, but that might change soon. I found that with my plating, I must clean, acid dip, distilled water dip (DW), pickle, DW, clean with #00 steel wool as thoroughly as possible, DW and then the yellow chromate for no more than 20 seconds, then immediately DW one last time. I don't heat the solution, although I did, but found that even in my 40* F garage, the chromate finish is no different. I do dry with a hair dryer for faster results. Things that make it work better?!? "Polishing" after pickle. I have not found a way to chemically remove the white and grey residue that cakes my objects, but I have experimented with a diluted Muriatic that may work, and I've heard of using other acids. If the item has any residue then it will show up as a cloudy grey/brown/yellow after the chromate. Biggest most important thing is your dilution and dip time!!! A heavy dilution needs only 5-10 seconds. Minimum as suggested by the bottle itself can only be dipped for about 20 seconds. After that you will get a very dark yellow and at 30 seconds, your chromate will simply build upon itself too much and wipe right off. I did notice that if you then choose to you can redip after you wipe all the brown off and that gets rid of the residue you missed, leaving a beautiful, very authentic finish!! I love this stuff!! You just have to do some experimenting and have some patience to get your desired results.

Works well as long as you have sufficient zinc for the chromate to adhere to. I found dipping for a maximum of 20 seconds work well; longer than that the chromate rubbed off. Lower bath temperature had little effect on it's performance.

For a while I was unable to produce a quality finish. Here are a few tips: 1) Get a fish tank heater with a thermostat, temp must be 80 deg F exactly. The 200w heater Caswell sells works perfectly here. 2) make sure to wash your parts with a sprayer when removing from zinc pickle, do NOT just dip them 3) Do not dip the parts for more than 15 seconds. They should come out with only a faint yellow/gold color, this will increase as you dry it with a heat gun. As the part is drying you will be able to tell if you got it right when the color starts to change. If it only turns a dull yellow on bright zinc, start over, the finish will not be durable. Using these steps I have been able to produce parts that look identical to the factory part. I set them side by side and can not tell the difference. I soaked a test part in salt water for 4 days and it looked the same when it came out.

it feels that will start to give the espected finish..